His eyes caught her as she walked nimbly like a stray cat through the crowded main market street of McLeodganj. In the land of the lamas, amongst the saffron and maroon robes and the five color prayer flags that dispersed the silent chants of Om Mani Padme Hum into the breeze, her dirty black sweatshirt with muddy canvas shoes provided a natural contrast. So much so that her feline gait, her messy tousled hair, and the serpent of bluish white smoke that crawled about her into the clear mountain air were all reduced to accessories of attention. Remove all of them and even then she'd catch your eye. She, the odd one out.
He was on his way to the café that overlooked the valley, from where you can sit in the clear Christmas air with a steaming cup of cinnamon sprinkled cappuccino and gaze below at the small town of Dharamshala, and the Bhakhra Reservoir in the distance. Having finished his orange-rind muffin and 2 cups of coffee, he moved to the bottle-green benches that lined the road to the Monastery where the Lama stayed. Sitting there in idle abandon he watched the people in flux. It was only when the sun had decided to scatter itself on the snowy rocks of the Dhauladhar that he saw her again. Sipping the steaming soup of Goats Hoof that they suffuse with generous dollops of green coriander and black pepper along with a dying cigarette in her left hand, she was a picture of irony. A group of monks in their sandal incensed robes and their hands rotating the small prayer wheels passed, when he looked again she was not there.
He walked back to his room in the hotel. After the altercation with the hotel manager when he refused to provide a heater in the room, his ego resigned himself to make do with the blankets. To fight the cold night till sleep took over he huddled himself and ran through the day within his mind. And every time his thoughts came back to the girl in the dirty black sweatshirt emblazoned with the initials of his school. He was thinking of what she would be doing at that very moment, perhaps sitting out in the night staring at the three quarters of moon with another cigarette in her smokey fingers, but then sleep took over.
The next day he set off on a 20km trek to Triund; a place above the timberline, still covered with pristine white snow. He had a bus to catch that same evening to return to his cubicle the next morning, and so he didn't want to delay. Once on an earlier trip he was forced to return after having been almost there. This time he decided to reach the top. After 3 hours of walking through the crawling trail that made its way across stone, mud, slush and melting snow; he saw her again.
Just outside the en route cafe MidWay, she sat on the grass at the slope of this mountain that fell straight into a valley below. Her back resting against a rock, a thick glass tumbler of extra sweet milky chai to her right, blowing smoke rings at the landscape ahead that made McLeodganj a piece of elaborate miniature painting, she looked at him looking at her. He smiled and waved his hand, she raised her eyebrows in a symbol of recognition. He walked up to her and recognised the sweet smokey smell of grass that surrounded her like the mists covered these rocky hills. Bending down he asked if he could have a drag.
Two plates of noodles, 6 cups of chai, and 3 joints later he realised that it was time to return and he did not even know her name, or what she did, or where did she come from. But he had told her about how he had to run away every few months to come here, just to be with himself. And she had looked at him with empathetic eyes, and a smile that let out little clouds of smoke while the dry twigs of grass danced with the breeze in her disheveled hair. He wanted to find out about her. He wanted to know her story. About what brought her here? About why she wanders alone in these streets, with her head filled with the numbness of a sweet smelling smoke? Yet, he knew he would not ask, and that she would not tell.
It was time to leave. He got up and looked at the peak which was still left behind. Untouched. She sat at the same place, letting the sun bathe her as it started its descent from the skies. He thanked her for her company, to which she didn't pay any attention. And so he asked when did she graduate from the school. She turned around and looked at him, her wide dark and tired eyes questioning his question. He pointed at the sweatshirt, she looked at the once white letters and let out a dismissive laughter.
'Got it for 50 bucks off the footpath from CP'.
He shrugged his shoulders as an amused chuckle slipped out of his mouth and rolled down without a sound into the valley below. He started to walk back to the bus-stand in McLeodganj. There was a long journey ahead.
The last that he remembers of her, is not her face or her voice, but the sun streaming down on her sallow cheeks as she rolled another joint.
Note: Started this on 26 Dec 2007, completed only today.
Labels: Fiction, Travel